Fork in the Road: John Besh’s La Provence Restaurant


It’s not every day you can visit a charming country French style auberge, and then be invited by the staff to go out back and visit their pigs after dining. Truth be told, it was a large part of the reason I wanted to dine at La Provence. So, on my last visit to New Orleans, I took the time to drive across Lake Pontchartrain to Lacombe, LA for La Provence’s wonderful Sunday brunch. Continue reading

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Kim Long Restaurant, Biloxi, Mississippi | Fork in the Road


There has been a Vietnamese restaurant on the corner of Reynoir Street and Division in Biloxi for as long as I can remember, and although it may have been called something else at even earlier times, it has been Kim Long Restaurant for at least twenty years. This part of Biloxi has been the economic center for South Mississippi’s Vietnamese community since it began to grow in the 1980s. Once, five thousand strong, it was centered here and in east Biloxi, the area called Point Cadet since the French arrived in 1699. Katrina displaced much of the community, but Kim Long and a few other businesses still thrive. Continue reading

One Man’s Trash and Another Man’s Treasure: Cooking with Gin Mash


One bright brainwave, two remarkable results: Washington’s Peter Smith is making culinary use of the botanical byproduct of gin production known as ‘mash,’ and in doing so, is providing the gin industry for the first time ever with a sustainable market for its waste. He is the first chef in the country to cook with gin mash. Continue reading